Let’s Talk About Peels – Cleansing, exfoliating, moisturizing and protecting our skin from the sun are essential processes to have and maintain beautiful skin. But at certain times of our year, for reasons that we associate with environmental changes; drop in temperature, decrease or increase in humidity, various environmental factors such as closed spaces or spaces heavily laden with smoke or toxins. As a result, we observe that our skin does not seem “quite right” despite maintaining a perfect routine. So what is wrong?
What Is A Peel For?
The skin’s natural renewal process occurs every 28 days. However, that process slows down as we grow older. Consequently, the dead cells do not shed properly, remaining on the surface of the epidermis, resulting in an ashy tone with a rough texture and a dull appearance.
We have heard that skin exfoliation contributes to the acceleration of skin cell regeneration. Similarly, there are several types of peels; the daily ones are usually of a mild kind, others a little more aggressive than can do once or twice a week. And, in the same way, there are certainly more aggressive “exfoliations” that can do once a month, and smooth only once or twice a year and at particular times.
The continuous aggressions to which we subject our skin weaken our epidermis and deteriorate the appearance of our skin, so in short, a peeling is nothing more than peeling or exfoliation with different degrees of penetration into the prominent skin traits. In other words, we can summarize that peeling is an accelerated skin renewal.
The basis of peeling is to remove damaged skin so that it can then regenerate from the deeper layers of the skin, which are “younger” and have no cell damage.
The results are usually evident after its completion, and with the passing of days, the skin improves considerably. In addition, they treat wrinkles, improve the appearance of scars, conceal and reduce skin hyperpigmentation, reduce acne and restore skin radiance.
Let’s Remember The Layers Of The Skin
If you do not know them, we recommend that you read our previous article, “Know your Skin”; In it, you will learn about your skin’s needs and characteristics and perhaps discover small flaws in your facial routine to show off your desired skin.
However, the skin is made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis:
- EPIDERMIS. It is the farthest layer made up of layers of cells. We explain their strata in the next section.
- DERMIS. It is the connective tissue, that is, the tissue that establishes a connection with other tissues and serves as a support for different structures of the body. Tissue rich in fibres and abundant intercellular substance. The dermis is the blood and lymphatic vessels, nerve endings, sweat glands, sebaceous glands and hair follicles.
- HYPODERMIS or SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE. The deepest layer is where fat found.
In turn, the epidermis is up of five layers:
- STRATUM CORNEUM. It is the farthest layer of the epidermis and comprises approximately 20 sublayers of dead, flattened cells, depending on the part of the body that covers the skin.
- STRATUM LUCIDO Also called the transparent layer, it is found only in the thickest parts of the epidermis, such as the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet.
- GRANULOUS STRATUM. The cells of this stratum contain granules filled with a substance called keratohyalin, necessary for keratin production.
- SPINY STRATUM. It formed approximately between 8 and 10 layers of cells of irregular shape. These cells are rich in DNA, necessary for protein synthesis that will culminate in keratin production. In addition, Langerhans cells, which are part of the immune system, are also found here. In case of skin diseases, this layer can retain water, leading to blisters on the skin.
- GERMINATIVE OR BASAL STRATUM. Formed by cylindrical cells that undergo mitosis, they move towards
The upper layers of the epidermis until they are on the skin surface during desquamation. Melanocytes are responsible for the pigment responsible for colouring and tanning the skin, melanin. While the Merkel cells, associated with nerve fibres, transmit part of the touch. It is separated from the dermis by the basement membrane.
Its main components, such as ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol, must be appropriately balanced for the skin barrier to function correctly. For example, most skincare products target all three groups of compounds. Therefore, a balanced diet makes it possible to increase fatty acids and cholesterol, improving skin sensitivity.
Exfoliation And Peeling, Are They The Same?
Yes, in finality, but not in definition.
- Exfoliation eliminates the most superficial layers of the skin. It results from a massage or manual dragging of a particular product or substance through the skin. As a result, it affects only the outermost layers of the skin and removes dead cells and impurities by activating blood circulation. In addition, it helps to keep the pores cleaner and favours the penetration of the products that applied next.
- A peel uses chemical and physical substances that remove layers of the skin in a controlled and limited way, even affecting (depending on the degree of penetration) the lower layers of the dermis. As a result, after the skin’s regenerative process, it feels cleaner, more elastic, luminous and, above all, with an even tone. In addition, it favours the regenerative approach to the skin and stimulates the synthesis of collagen, smoothes the skin, reduces blemishes and smoothes wrinkles.
Types Of Peelings
As we mentioned at the beginning, there are different types of skin peels and, consequently, different types of peels.
The peeling can act on different layers of the skin and can be superficial, medium penetration or deep penetration. However, its classification does not depend on the depth of penetration of the skin but on how it is out.
In this case, peels can be mechanical or chemical, although broadly speaking, a mechanical peel is an exfoliation.
1. Mechanical Peeling / Exfoliation
A mechanical peeling is an entirely painless procedure (as long as we remember that we must not exert pressure to the point of pain and irritation of the superficial layers of the skin) and non-invasive in which the dead scales of the skin. Corneocytes of the external layer of the skin, they are generally detached by the friction of granules in the composition of the exfoliating gel or cream that is being. It is an overall process usually performed on the face, neck, arms or legs in a generalized way.
♥ At Hidrotelial, we have developed our Facial and Body Exfoliating Gel. Which contains Jojoba microgranules that help remove deceased cells and impurities from the skin. Thanks to the rounded structure of the Jojoba microgranules. The aggression to the skin is lower than general exfoliants that contain sugar as an active exfoliating ingredient since it has a polygonal system with irregular points. Provides clean and smooth skin. Favouring the action of subsequent treatments thanks to the Aloe Vera, Ginkgo and Allantoin juice in its composition.
The results are visible from the first performance of the mechanical peeling, favouring and improving the absorption by the skin of the benefits of the products applied later.
2. Chemical Peeling
In a chemical peel, the desquamation and removal of dead cells occur thanks to the application of acids. The most common are glycolic, salicylic or TCA, among others.
Chemical peels treat wrinkles and remove facial blemishes and scars, especially in the facial area. The chemical peel can done alone or in combination with other cosmetic procedures, and its degree of penetration into the skin will depend on the acid used.
Deep chemical peels have better results, but we must also consider that they imply longer recovery times. Furthermore, being more aggressive than a mechanical peel. It is very likely that the skin will present visible flaking due to the detachment of skin layers during the following days.